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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html lang="en">
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width,initial-scale=1">
<title>Corsica, unrushed — the same island at a pace you can actually keep</title>
<meta name="description" content="The Corsica route re-paced by an optimiser so no day stacks a long drive on a long hike: 26 days, mean 7.4 h a day, nothing over 10 h.">
<meta name="color-scheme" content="light">
<link rel="preconnect" href="https://unpkg.com">
<link rel="preconnect" href="https://a.tile.opentopomap.org">
<link rel="preconnect" href="https://tile.openstreetmap.org">
<link rel="stylesheet" href="https://unpkg.com/leaflet@1.9.4/dist/leaflet.css"
integrity="sha256-p4NxAoJBhIIN+hmNHrzRCf9tD/miZyoHS5obTRR9BMY=" crossorigin="">
<link rel="stylesheet" href="https://unpkg.com/leaflet.markercluster@1.5.3/dist/MarkerCluster.css">
<link rel="preconnect" href="https://fonts.gstatic.com" crossorigin>
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<link rel="stylesheet" href="assets/css/style.css">
</head>
<body>
<nav class="nav">
<div class="nav-in">
<span class="brand">CORSICA <b>·</b> unrushed</span>
<div class="ver" role="group" aria-label="Trip version">
<a href="van.html">🚐 Van</a><a href="hotels.html">🛏 Hotels</a><a href="paced.html" class="on" aria-current="page">🐢 Unrushed</a>
</div>
<a class="deckbtn" href="index.html?v=paced">▤ Day view</a>
<div class="nav-links">
<a href="#map-section">Map</a>
<a href="#itinerary-section">Itinerary</a>
<a href="#hikes">Hikes</a>
<a href="#water">Beaches</a>
<a href="#vegan">Vegan food</a>
<a href="#logistics">Van logistics</a>
<a href="#money">Budget</a>
</div>
</div>
</nav>
<!-- ================================================= HERO -->
<header class="hero">
<div class="wrap">
<span class="hero-tag">🐢 Re-paced by an optimiser · no day stacks a long drive on a long hike</span>
<h1>Corsica at a pace you can <em>keep</em>.</h1>
<p class="big">
The same island, re-cut by an optimiser rather than by eye. Every day is checked against real
drive times and realistic time at each stop, under two rules: at most one <em>effortful</em>
activity a day, and when a day has one, the driving is capped. Which stops make the cut is
decided by how many of ten independent guides rate them, not by my opinion. The result is
<b>27 days at a mean of 7.7 hours</b>, nothing over 10 — longer than you probably want, and the
honest length of this trip.
</p>
<div class="stats">
<div class="stat"><b id="sDays">15</b><span>days</span></div>
<div class="stat"><b id="sKm">1,340</b><span>km driving</span></div>
<div class="stat"><b id="sDrive">32 h</b><span>behind the wheel</span></div>
<div class="stat"><b id="sStops">51</b><span>mapped stops</span></div>
<div class="stat"><b>7.7 h</b><span>mean day</span></div>
<div class="stat"><b id="sHikes">12</b><span>hikes</span></div>
</div>
<p class="hero-src">
Source film: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVLl3bvjSQw" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Corsica | An Incredible 10-Day Road Trip ↗</a>
— its narration, hike figures and stop list are quoted throughout. Coordinates from OpenStreetMap;
driving lines are real road geometry, not straight lines.
</p>
</div>
</header>
<!-- ================================================= MAP -->
<section id="map-section">
<div class="wrap">
<p class="eyebrow">The route</p>
<h2>Sixteen days, one anticlockwise loop</h2>
<p class="lede">
Pick a day to isolate its drive and its stops. Filter the pins by what you feel like doing —
hiking, lying on sand, or wandering an old town. Every line is the actual road, so the distances
and times are honest: Corsica averages about 45 km/h.
</p>
<div class="map-shell">
<aside class="map-side">
<div class="map-side-hd">
<h4>Filter the pins</h4>
<div class="chips" id="chips"></div>
</div>
<div class="day-list" id="dayList"></div>
</aside>
<div class="map-main">
<div id="map" role="application" aria-label="Map of the Corsica van route"></div>
<button class="map-reset" id="mapReset" type="button">Whole route · 16 days</button>
<div class="map-legend">
<b>Legend</b>
<div><s></s> selected day's drive</div>
<div><s class="ghost"></s> the other 14 days</div>
<div style="margin-top:.35rem;opacity:.7">Click any line, pin or cluster for detail. Switch to the plain basemap top-right.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</section>
<!-- ================================================= ITINERARY -->
<section id="itinerary-section">
<div class="wrap">
<p class="eyebrow">Day by day</p>
<h2>The itinerary</h2>
<p class="lede">
The film does this in ten days. In a van, on these roads, ten days means driving past most of it —
so it is stretched to fifteen, with the mountain days given room and two nights parked at the same
beach. Every day names its sleep, its hike and its van hazard.
</p>
<div class="note time" style="max-width:74ch;margin-top:1.4rem">
<b>How the days are timed.</b> Every day names the time you should be checked in — usually
18:00 — and the driving is sized to hit it, because campsite receptions shut around 19:30 and
hotel check-in doesn't open until 15:00. Where the evening is the point (the Calanches, the
Sanguinaires), the day checks in first and goes back out. And day 16 is a deliberate buffer:
night 15 is 20 minutes from the ferry, so nothing that goes wrong in the mountains can cost you
the crossing.
</div>
<div class="note warn" style="max-width:70ch;margin-top:1.4rem">
<b>Want the film's ten days exactly?</b> Merge days 1–2 into one long Cap Corse day, merge 4–5,
run 6–7 together, and cut day 3 (the Agriates) and day 8 (the Niolu). That lands on ten days with
every headline stop intact — the Calanches, Capo Rosso, Bavella, Melo, Bonifacio, the white
beaches — and costs you Saleccia, Col de Vergio and Lac de Calacuccia. It also means three
consecutive days of over four hours at the wheel, which is exactly what the fifteen-day version
exists to avoid.
</div>
<div id="itinerary"></div>
</div>
</section>
<!-- ================================================= HOTELS -->
<!-- ================================================= CAMPING -->
<!-- ================================================= HIKES -->
<section id="hikes">
<div class="wrap">
<p class="eyebrow">On foot</p>
<h2>Seventeen hikes and walks, easy to brutal</h2>
<p class="lede">
Where the film gives its own figures — Capo Rosso, Monte Senino, Bavella, Melo, Figarella — those
are the numbers used here, because they are what the route actually measured rather than what the
signboards claim. Three of these are hard days out. None of them need ropes.
</p>
<div class="tbl-wrap">
<table>
<thead><tr><th>Hike</th><th>Distance</th><th>Ascent</th><th>Time</th><th>Grade</th><th></th></tr></thead>
<tbody id="hikeBody"></tbody>
</table>
</div>
<div class="note hike" style="max-width:74ch;margin-top:1.4rem">
<b>Mountain rules that matter here.</b> Storms build over the Corsican interior in the early
afternoon almost daily in summer — start at first light and be off the ridges by 14:00.
There is no shade on any coastal hike: two litres of water each, minimum. Fires and off-trail
camping are banned island-wide in the fire season, and the maquis burns fast.
</div>
</div>
</section>
<!-- ================================================= BEACHES -->
<section id="water">
<div class="wrap">
<p class="eyebrow">Doing nothing</p>
<h2>Beaches, river pools and one black shingle bay</h2>
<p class="lede">
Two kinds of swimming on this route: the white-sand postcard beaches of the south and Balagne,
and the cold granite plunge pools of the interior, which are free, empty and better on a
35-degree afternoon.
</p>
<div class="grid g3" id="beachGrid"></div>
</div>
</section>
<!-- ================================================= VEGAN -->
<section id="vegan">
<div class="wrap">
<p class="eyebrow">Eating vegan</p>
<h2>Corsica is hard for vegans. Here is how to do it anyway.</h2>
<p class="lede">
No point pretending otherwise: this is a cuisine built on charcuterie, brocciu, wild boar and
fish, and there are exactly three fully plant-based or all-vegetarian kitchens on the whole
island. Every day of the itinerary above names where to eat and, on the days when the honest
answer is "carry your own", says so.
</p>
<div class="grid g2" style="margin-top:2rem">
<div class="card">
<h3>The four things that always work</h3>
<p><b>1. Pizza marinara.</b> Tomato, garlic, oregano, olive oil, no cheese — vegan by default
and on the menu of every pizzeria in Corsica, of which there are hundreds. Order it by name
and add <i>sans mozzarella</i> to be certain. This is your floor: you will never go hungry.</p>
<p><b>2. Self-catering.</b> Village markets, greengrocers and the organic chains
(Biocoop, La Vie Claire, Eau Vive) are listed day by day above. In a van this is the backbone;
in hotels it is at least lunch.</p>
<p><b>3. Asking, in the right words.</b> Say <b><i>végétalien</i></b>, not <i>végétarien</i> —
in rural France the latter is widely read as "fish and lardons are fine". The sentence that
works: <i>"Je suis végétalien — sans viande, sans poisson, sans fromage, sans œufs, sans
beurre. C'est possible ?"</i> Corsicans are hospitable and will usually improvise something
good.</p>
<p><b>4. Notice.</b> Ring a mountain auberge in the morning and they will cook for you.
Walk in at 20:00 and they will apologise. This matters most at Bavella, Zonza and in
the Niolu.</p>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h3>Corsican things that happen to be vegan</h3>
<p><b>Chestnut flour</b> is the island's other staple and it is everywhere: <i>pulenta
castagnina</i>, chestnut bread, chestnut beer. Check how the polenta is cooked — it is often
finished with cheese or served under charcuterie, but the base is just flour, water and salt.</p>
<p><b>Produce</b> is superb and cheap: tomatoes, aubergines, peppers, figs, clementines,
peaches, olives, olive oil, almonds. The Île-Rousse and Ajaccio markets are the best of them.</p>
<p><b>Canistrelli</b>, the ubiquitous biscuit, are traditionally made with white wine and oil
rather than butter — many are accidentally vegan. Read the packet, as recipes vary.</p>
<p style="color:var(--porphyry)"><b>Watch out for:</b> brocciu, which is in most traditional
dishes (and seasonal, roughly November to June); <i>soupe corse</i>, which is built on pork;
<i>figatellu</i>, which is liver sausage; and the habit of finishing pasta and salads with
cheese unless you say otherwise.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="note hike" style="max-width:80ch;margin-top:1.6rem">
<b>The easy days and the hard ones.</b> <b>Bastia (day 1) and Ajaccio</b> are genuinely easy —
between them they hold all three of the island's plant-based kitchens, so eat well and shop
properly on those days. <b>Corte</b> is a student town and copes fine. The stretches that need
planning ahead are <b>Cap Corse</b>, <b>the Agriates and Saleccia</b> (nothing at all on that
beach), <b>Piana and Arone</b>, <b>the Niolu</b>, <b>Bavella and the Alta Rocca</b>, and the
<b>Lavezzi islands</b>. On each of those the itinerary tells you where to shop the day before.
</div>
<p style="margin-top:1.4rem;font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted);max-width:74ch">
Every place named above and in the daily plans exists in OpenStreetMap or HappyCow at the
coordinates given — none are invented. The badges record how strong the evidence is:
<b>Fully vegan</b> means a plant-based kitchen, <b>Vegan options</b> means vegan dishes are
confirmed, and <b>Veg-friendly — ask</b> means vegetarian food is on the menu and vegan is a
conversation. Menus change and small places close, so phone ahead where it matters.
</p>
</div>
</section>
<!-- ================================================= LOGISTICS -->
<section id="logistics">
<div class="wrap">
<p class="eyebrow">Van logistics</p>
<h2>Getting there, and getting round</h2>
<dl class="fact" style="display:block;margin:2rem 0 0">
<div class="fact">
<dt>Ferry out<small>Toulon → Bastia</small></dt>
<dd>
The film's crossing, and the one this route is built on: Corsica Ferries, overnight,
about 11–12 hours, arriving in Bastia in the morning ready to drive. Roughly
<b>€200–350 one way</b> for a van up to 6 m plus two passengers in shoulder season, more in
August, and priced by vehicle length — measure yours honestly, including the bike rack.
Book a cabin for an overnight sailing; you'll be hiking the next day.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Ferry back<small>Bastia → Livorno</small></dt>
<dd>
Also the film's choice, and the smart one: <b>four hours</b> instead of twelve, usually cheaper,
and it puts you in Tuscany. Savona, Genoa, Nice and Marseille are the other options; Piombino
and Livorno are the shortest hops. Booking a different port out and back costs nothing extra.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Speed and distance<small>the number that ruins plans</small></dt>
<dd>
1,448 km over 16 days sounds like nothing. It is <b>34 hours of moving time</b>, an average of
<b>43 km/h</b>, and in a van on the D81 or the D268 it will be slower. Two hours of mapped
driving is a half-day in Corsica. Never plan a hike and a long transfer on the same day.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Roads a van should respect</dt>
<dd>
<b>D81 through the Calanches de Piana</b> — the pinch point of the island: single-lane sections,
rock overhangs, 300 m drops, and coaches. Under about 6 m and 3 m high you are fine; do it at
07:00 or after 18:00, never mid-morning.<br>
<b>D268 to Col de Bavella</b>, <b>D147 to Haut-Asco</b>, <b>D69 to Ghisoni</b>,
<b>D253 to Barcaggio</b>, <b>D71 through the Castagniccia</b> — all narrow, all fine taken
slowly, all twice as slow as the map says.<br>
<b>Restonica (D623)</b> — closed beyond the Pont de Tragone since the 2023 storms. Shuttle only.<br>
<b>Saleccia and Roccapina tracks</b> — unsurfaced. The Saleccia piste voids most rental
contracts; take the boat.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Water, waste, gas</dt>
<dd>
Campsites are the reliable option and most sell a service-only visit for a few euros. There are
municipal <em>aires de camping-car</em> at Île-Rousse, Saint-Florent, Macinaggio, Solenzara and
Porto-Vecchio. Village fountains in the interior are drinkable unless signed otherwise.
French <b>Butagaz/Campingaz</b> bottles swap at any large supermarket; foreign bottles do not,
so bring enough or buy a French one on arrival. Fuel is scarce and shut on Sundays in the
interior — never cross the mountains below a half tank.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>The buffer day<small>day 16 does nothing on purpose</small></dt>
<dd>
The plan is fifteen days of content and <b>sixteen days away</b>. Night 15 is spent 20
minutes from the ferry gate, and day 16 has nothing in it that matters. Corsica will take a
day off you sooner or later — a storm on the Bavella road, a puncture on the D81, a hike
that runs three hours over, a ferry that reschedules — and the alternative to a buffer is
that the missing day comes out of the crossing you already paid for. If nothing goes wrong,
you get the Castagniccia and a calm morning. That is not a wasted day; it is the cheapest
insurance on the trip.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Check-in windows<small>the constraint most plans ignore</small></dt>
<dd>
Corsican campsite receptions typically run <b>08:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:30</b>, and close
earlier at altitude and outside July–August; hotels check in <b>from 15:00</b> and out by
10:00–11:00. So two rules shape every day here. <b>Don't plan to arrive late:</b> every day
carries a "be at your bed by" time, generally 18:00, and the driving is sized to hit it.
<b>Don't plan to arrive early either:</b> your room is not ready at 09:00, which is why day
one leaves the bags at reception and goes walking. These windows are typical, not promises —
confirm yours, especially if you will land after 19:00.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Sunsets need checking in first</dt>
<dd>
Three of the best hours of this trip are after 20:30: the Calanches de Piana, the Îles
Sanguinaires and the tower at Nonza. Late May sunset is around 21:00 and no reception is
taking an arrival then. Each of those days is built to <b>check in first and go back
out</b> — the pitch or the room is already yours, so coming back at 22:00 costs nothing.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>When to go</dt>
<dd>
<b>May–June</b> is what you are watching in the film: waterfalls at full flow, snow still on
Cinto and Rotondo, wildflowers, sea around 19 °C, and campsites with space. <b>September</b>
trades the waterfalls for a warm sea and the same emptiness. <b>July–August</b> means booked-out
sites, doubled prices, fire bans and a queue at Palombaggia — go if you must, but reserve
everything and start every day at dawn.
</dd>
</div>
<div class="fact">
<dt>Three travellers, one route</dt>
<dd>
The pins are tagged for the three moods this trip mixes. <b>Nature & hiking</b> days:
2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 14. <b>Beach & chill</b> days: 3, 4, 13, plus the afternoons of 7
and 15. <b>Towns & culture</b> days: 1, 11, 12, with old towns also sitting inside days
4, 5 and 13. Days 9 and 10 are the natural split point: one of you takes the Navetta up the
Restonica for Melo while the other has Corte's museums and a long lunch, and you meet for
dinner in the old town.
</dd>
</div>
</dl>
</div>
</section>
<!-- ================================================= BUDGET -->
<section id="money">
<div class="wrap narrow">
<p class="eyebrow">What it costs</p>
<h2>Budget: two people, sixteen days, own van</h2>
<p class="lede">Shoulder-season estimate, mid-budget, cooking about half your meals.</p>
<div class="tbl-wrap money">
<table>
<thead><tr><th>Item</th><th>Assumption</th><th>Total</th></tr></thead>
<tbody>
<tr><td class="n">Ferry, return</td><td>Toulon→Bastia overnight + Bastia→Livorno, van ≤6 m, 2 people, 1 cabin</td><td>€420</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Campsites</td><td>13 nights × €28 (15 island nights, 2 of them in hotels)</td><td>€364</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Hotels</td><td>2 nights × €130 (Calvi, Corte)</td><td>€260</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Fuel</td><td>≈1,600 km with detours, 9 L/100 km, €1.95/L</td><td>€281</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Groceries</td><td>€35/day × 16</td><td>€560</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Restaurants</td><td>8 dinners out × €55 for two</td><td>€440</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Boats</td><td>Scandola/Girolata, Lavezzi, Saleccia shuttle</td><td>€160</td></tr>
<tr><td class="n">Entries, parking, shuttles</td><td>Restonica navetta, Filitosa, Aleria, Cucuruzzu, beach parking</td><td>€120</td></tr>
</tbody>
<tfoot>
<tr><td>Total for two</td><td>≈ €81 per person per day</td><td>€2,605</td></tr>
</tfoot>
</table>
</div>
<p style="margin-top:1rem;font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted)">
Renting a campervan instead adds roughly €90–160 a day in shoulder season and more in August;
picking one up on the island avoids the ferry vehicle charge entirely, which is often the cheaper
arithmetic for a two-week trip.
</p>
<h3 style="margin-top:2.8rem;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.5rem">Pack for two climates</h3>
<ul class="pack">
<li><b>Proper hiking boots</b> — Melo, Bavella and Capo Rosso are rock, not path</li>
<li><b>2 × 1 L bottles each</b> plus a bladder for the long days</li>
<li><b>Fleece and windproof shell</b> — Vergio and Bavella are 1,200–1,500 m and cold at dawn</li>
<li><b>Water shoes</b> for the river canyons and shingle beaches</li>
<li><b>Head torch</b> — for the 8-hour Melo day and for cooking after sunset</li>
<li><b>Levelling blocks and chocks</b> — almost nowhere in Corsica is flat</li>
<li><b>Long water hose and a watering can</b> — many taps are nowhere near a pitch</li>
<li><b>Mosquito net for the sliding door</b> — the east-coast plain in summer</li>
<li><b>Paper map (IGN Corse)</b> — mobile signal dies in the Niolu and Asco</li>
<li><b>Offline maps downloaded</b> before you leave the coast</li>
<li><b>Snorkel and mask</b> — Lavezzi, Rondinara and Scandola deserve it</li>
<li><b>Reef-safe sun cream, hat, sunglasses</b> — no shade on any coastal hike</li>
<li><b>Tick remover and antihistamine</b> — maquis and grazing animals</li>
<li><b>A French gas bottle</b> or enough gas for two weeks</li>
<li><b>Cash</b> — small mountain bars and some campsites still prefer it</li>
<li><b>A cool box or fridge you trust</b> — brocciu, charcuterie and rosé are the point</li>
</ul>
</div>
</section>
<footer>
<div class="wrap">
<div class="foot-grid">
<div>
<h4>Built from</h4>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVLl3bvjSQw" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The source film ↗</a> — stop list, narration and hike figures</li>
<li>Its auto-generated transcript, for the details the timestamps don't carry</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<h4>Data</h4>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/copyright" target="_blank" rel="noopener">OpenStreetMap ↗</a> — every coordinate on this page</li>
<li><a href="https://overpass-api.de/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Overpass API ↗</a> — the 254 Corsican campsites this list was curated from</li>
<li><a href="https://project-osrm.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">OSRM ↗</a> — real road geometry, distances and driving times</li>
<li><a href="https://opentopomap.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">OpenTopoMap ↗</a> — terrain tiles (relief matters on this island)</li>
<li><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Wikimedia Commons ↗</a> — all 88 photos, freely licensed. Each one credits its photographer and licence in the viewer; open a photo to see them.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<h4>Check before you go</h4>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.corsica-ferries.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Corsica Ferries ↗</a> — sailings and vehicle lengths</li>
<li><a href="https://www.pnr.corsica/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Parc Naturel Régional de Corse ↗</a> — bivouac and fire rules</li>
<li><a href="https://www.corte-tourisme.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Corte tourist office ↗</a> — Restonica road and Navetta C13 status</li>
<li><a href="https://meteofrance.com/previsions-meteo-france/corse/10" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Météo-France Corse ↗</a> — check it every morning before a ridge</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<p class="foot-b">
Coordinates, road routes and campsite existence are machine-verified. Opening hours, prices,
shuttle timetables and road closures change — treat every number here as a plan, not a promise,
and confirm the Restonica situation locally. Wild camping remains illegal in Corsica.
Prefer a bed every night? <a href="hotels.html">The same route from seven hotels ↗</a>.
</p>
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